Sunset, Olargues, France, 2003

My wife and I had the very good fortune to spend time in Olargues.

Olargues is a commune, the most elementary level of government administration, similar to an incorporated village or town in the U.S. The commune is located in southern France: in the department of the Hérault, in the region Languedoc-Roussillon.

Designated one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France, Olargue is a lovely example of a French medieval village. Nestled by the slowly moving Jaur river, the commune is dominated by a 9th century bell tower, once part of a castle.

This picture shows the bell tower and the 12th century Pont de Diablo, the Devil’s Bridge, where, according to legend, the people of Olargues did business with the Devil.

Historical Note:

Olargues had been home to Romans, Vandals and Visgoths, and in the 12th century Cathars. The Cathars were a Gnostic Christian offshoot influenced by Persian theological traditions that had spread from the east through Byzantium. They maintained their own church structure which was divided into two groups, Laity and Perfects. The Laity lived normal lives while the Perfects, a small group of men and women, led severe ascetic lives while maintaining themselves as itinerant workers. The Cathar belief system was at odds with the Roman Catholic Church. Cathars believed in the equality of men and women, that there should be no priests or church buildings, and that there was reincarnation. They allowed contraception, suicide, and euthanasia. In addition, they were opposed to the feudal system

The Cathar belief was wide-spread in Languedoc, a region with very different language, social and historical traditions than the French the Ilse de France, whom they called the Languedoui. By the 13th century, the Pope had his fill of the heretical Cathars. The King of France, looking to add the much richer Languedoc to his possessions, convinced Pope Innocent III that the Cathars needed to be dealt with. Innocent III declared the Cathars heretics and sanctioned a crusade against them. In 1208, the bloody crusade began and by its end 500,000 Cathar men, women and children had been killed and the prosperous Languedoc laid to waste. The region would remain under populated and in decline until the 18th century.

The Devil’s Bridge legend is the residue of that time. A story used to discredit the Cathars of Olargues and justify their subjugation.

Today, there are still many signs of the old Languedoc in Olargues and the region. The old Languedoc language has resurfaced. It is found in the distinctive French accent, the use of the Cathar cross as the region’s official flag, road and shop signs, and a general attitude of disregard for big organizations and the government.

Updated 02/03/2012
Photo image updated to 13″ x 19″ format print.

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